We're thrilled to be collaborating with Hellenius Botanicals on a tea and botanical-dyed tea towel, the first of many products we hope to create together.
Maya Ravi and her mother Anna founded Hellenius Botanicals this past year in Berkeley, California. Together they produce plant-dyed home goods and clothing. Using wildflowers, herbs, vegetables and minerals, they bundle roll and steam each piece by hand to create one of a kind naturally-dyed prints. These organic cotton heavy weight towels are dyed with our Chai, blossoms of marigold, and cochineal. The result is a warm and natural hue with specks and spots of pinky-red and golden rust. A limited stock of these towels is now available online. Below is an interview with Hellenius Botanicals founder Maya Ravi, discussing her process and inspiration.
An Interview w/ Maya Ravi of Hellenius Botanicals
What sparked your interest in dyeing with plants?
Originally, the desire to create something lasting out of something ephemeral. The idea of creating a memory, a story, or another life, out of something that otherwise would be discarded. My mom and I have always loved nature - always surrounding ourselves with fresh flowers and being out in the elements. I wanted to be able to take the flowers that I'd received - from both the joyous moments in my life and the saddest ones - and turn them into a lasting keepsake.
In New York, I took a class on natural dyeing techniques with the brilliant natural dyer, Cara Maria Piazza. I was drawn to the aesthetic of the dyed materials, especially the imperfections in each piece. After that class, I dove into experimenting with the many ways I could manipulate the tones and textures to create something really dreamy. I knew that my mom would love the class, so I signed her up when she came to visit. She took her newfound knowledge to India (a second home to her and my father) and came back with some of the most spectacular fabrics I'd ever seen. We've been collaborating on Hellenius Botanicals ever since.
What is your favorite aspect of natural plant dyeing? And which part of the process do you enjoy the most?
Probably the unbundling - you never really know what you're going to get. Each time you unravel a piece of fabric after dyeing it, it's a surprise. An entirely different color-scape and pattern emerges. It's fun to experiment with time, temperature, and textile type. There are so many variables to play with. You can even drastically shift colors by modifying the pH values. We also love to experiment with plants between seasons. For instance, there will be a subtle difference in color when you use a young, tender nettle in the spring versus one that's nearing the end of its life in summer. We always dye with what we find locally and in season. This lends itself to ever-changing color palettes.
A lot of the plants we use are foraged. We don't take more than we need, and we always make sure the areas we forage will regrow properly. We also like to use food waste. We keep a bag in our freezer that we continually replenish with citrus rinds, avocado pits, onion peels, pomegranate skins, etc. so nothing is just being bought and used and thrown away. Everything gets another life.
Lastly, one more aspect that I love (maybe the most!) is the idea that the natural materials you use for dyeing are alive. That they surround you and embrace you with their essence and beneficial elements each and every day.
What is it like to collaborate as mother and daughter?
It's been surprisingly straightforward and ultimately gratifying. We both bring something completely different to the table. My mom is extraordinarily creative and intuitive. She lets her imagination run wild and doesn't feel constrained by rules. She also has incredible skills as a craftsman. When she experiments the results are amazing, whereas I am more rational and practical. I'm the one bringing focus to the project and trying to figure out how to create a business around what we're crafting. It's interesting though, the process of bundle dyeing is both intuitive and takes careful planning. It requires a lot of patience and forethought as well as creativity, so I think in working together, my mom and I really compliment each other.
Tell us about the textiles you use. How important is the quality of the textile in the natural dyeing process?
It's crucial. We work hard to ensure exceptional quality and fair production, collaborating and establishing relationships with farmers and artisans who we know and trust. More specifically though, natural dyes work best on natural fabrics, and each type of fabric takes the dyes differently - another fun and interesting part of the process. We use both cellulose, plant-based fibers like linen and cotton, or protein fibers such as wool and silk. There's also something really special about using handwoven textiles and hand-spun fabrics. Sometimes we repurpose antique or vintage items. In the end, silk is probably our favorite textile because it creates a striking watercolor-like effect.
What sources of inspiration do you bring into your work?
Our greatest source of inspiration is nature. Going for walks and taking notes of the rhythms of the world that surround us. My mother grew up in Finland, where you can still find fields and fields of wildflowers during spring and summer. One of our favorite things to do there is to pick and arrange bunches of wildflowers. In the winters, the Finnish landscape changes a lot. A different light, a different set of colors. And then on the other side, my father comes from Chennai, India where we've also spent a lot of time. Each morning in India, hundreds of thousands of fresh flowers - bright yellow marigolds to deep red roses - are arranged and offered to the deities at the temples. In the afternoons, my mother goes to collect these flowers before they are thrown away, and gives a donation in return. We repurpose the flowers to dye fabric and there's something very special about it all, perhaps that they were once adorning a god or goddess. She and I are both greatly inspired by these two different and beautiful cultures, their people, palettes, and landscapes.
There is also a really special book by Sasha Duerr called, Natural Palettes: Inspirational Plant-Based Color Systems. This book provides an unparalleled guide to natural color. It opened my eyes to the often surprising colors that common plants can produce.
Do you have any daily rituals that support your creative process?
We're currently planting a dye garden from seed and it has become a ritual to check on the progress each day. I also like arranging flowers, not surprisingly. I love setting a beautiful table for an evening shared with family and friends. We always use cloth napkins, which makes every dinner feel special. And the cool thing about bundle-dyed napkins is that you never have to worry about stains.
My husband also laughs that my mom and I both wear the same lavender-colored sweatpants and sweatshirt to work everyday, but I'm not sure that qualifies. The only true ritual I've maintained for years is that my morning always starts with a cup of tea in bed. Usually Earl Grey with lavender and raw honey. It gives me a bit of time to think and enjoy a moment of quiet before the hectic hours of the day begin.