To begin the dyeing process, each piece of fabric is prepared with a mordant. The mordant allows the dye to attach to the fabric's fibers—its very name originates from the Latin verb mordere, or "to bite!" At this stage, von Hellens often determines which natural materials to employ to achieve the desired base color. For instance, mint for a hint of green or avocado for a light pink. 

Once a base color is established, a selection of botanicals, plant matter, and minerals are arranged atop the fabric. Loquat leaves, camellias, and hollyhocks are used to produce a spectrum of color, from a light tangerine to an inky, dark purple. Marigold, onion, and turmeric are used to create light, delicate, and intense yellows. The botanicals are pounded into the fabric to draw out their individual bouquet of colors. Once set, the fabric is steamed to bind the natural dyes to the fabric's fibers. At this point, the fabric is either finished or given a final bath to modify its overall color. 

A wide range of natural materials is used in the production of our fabrics—we like to experiment! We use different parts of the same plant—petals, roots, leaves, and so on—to achieve variations in shade and tone. We often utilize medicinal plants, such as calendula or yarrow, as we have found that they are some of the special dye plants to work with. At times, we dye with insects and barks. We employ minerals, such as iron, to shift the color of our dyed fabrics. Past experimenting with materials, we like to play with time, temperature, and textile type.

To view more, please refer to our bundle dye tutorial and Instagram highlights.